A pookalam at the door and a sadya at midday decide this one. Why the sweet scents lose to the payasam —...

The first city the monsoon reaches, and a temple city and a government city at once. Restraint is the brief — in...

Kochi has no winter and no dry month — its only real season is street versus air conditioning. Which turns out to...

One bottle, not three. How to pack, apply and store a fragrance across a region where you cross a thousand metres and...

Gangtok to Tsomgo is two thousand metres in one morning, most of it in a packed jeep with the windows shut. The...

Three Bihus, three seasons, three answers — humid April dancing, a cool October lamp-lit evening, and a cold January by the meji....

Cool rain is not warm rain. At 18 degrees and near-saturated, the two forces cancel — which makes Meghalaya one of the...

Damp Brahmaputra air amplifies a fragrance instead of washing it away — and your own nose is the reason you cannot tell....

Four months of saturated air, and everyone's instinct — use more — is exactly wrong. Warm wet weather amplifies a fragrance instead...